Uchiko, part deux (and trois)

I was fortunate enough to attend a media reception at Uchiko last week. I had been once before during their soft opening in July and had a great meal - so I was very excited to go back and sample more of their menu. A few days after the reception, Chris and I went back and enjoyed a regular meal there, as well. I want to incorporate both experiences into one post, so I'll try to limit the photos from the reception a bit.

Most exciting thing about the reception? Tyson Cole and Paul Qui were standing at an open window at one end of the room making our food. Let's just say that the moment I realized this, I made my way over there and kind of refused to leave. It was amazing to watch both of these talented chefs at work and be able to taste each item as they were completing it.

Tyson Cole serving up some chicken yakitori with candied peanuts and garlic


(left) Paul Qui putting the finishing touches on a batch of koviche bites

(right) Fried tuna tendon. This is usually an inedible part of the fish, but in the hands of these amazing chefs, it became incredibly delicious - with a crispy, flavorful batter outside and a slightly chewy texture when you bit into it. Tyson said when he served it up, "This is what we eat." Tyson, I want what you eat.

This doesn't look like much, but it was stellar - housemade chicharrones with a fragrant truffle sauce that is still indelibly etched in my memory. There were also some gorgeous black chicharrones (colored with squid ink), but my little camera just couldn't do them justice. I beg the powers that be at Uchiko to add these fantastic morsels to the menu!



Could this be any more gorgeous? This is the Akami Te - big eye tuna with watermelon, cilantro and coriander. I love the way the colors of the tuna and watermelon are so closely matched, making it difficult to tell where one ends and the other begins.



We got to try quite a few other things at the reception, but I'm going to fast forward to our sit-down meal here, now. To start, we were treated with an amuse bouche of tomatoes with basil blossoms. So fresh and bright and crisp - perfect.



Then we had a bowl of their wonderful roasted edamame. The roasting process really coaxes an extra level of flavor out of these. I think these had a little douse of oil somewhere along the way, as well, which added a nice sumptuousness to them.



Next up was the koviche, one of my favorite dishes from my first visit to Uchiko and on my permanent to-order list here. Ridiculously fresh raw diver scallops atop tomatillos, dressed with kalamata powder and black lime. Put a scallop/tomatillo bite onto an architectural cracker, insert in mouth, make gutteral mmmming noises as your eyes roll back in your head.



Our order of chicken karaage arrived next. Half a chicken is expertly fried and served with a lemon juice/salt mixture and a side of marinated onions.



I know pork belly has become nearly cliché at this point, but I personally haven't tired of it - and Uchiko's version is well worth putting your pork belly suspicions aside. Done just as pork belly should be - crisp, yet rich and juicy. The roasted carrots that were served with it made my eyes widen with pleasure and delight - and I usually hate cooked carrots.



Also on my permanent to-order list are two of Uchiko's nigiri offerings: the nasu (eggplant) nigiri and the shiver-inducing beef tongue. The eggplant is smooth and silky and pairs so beautifully with the slight vinegar flavor in the sushi rice. And the smoky char to the falling-apart-tender beef tongue is simply revolutionary.





Our last savory selection was the tiger cry roll - grilled wagyu steak with yuzu kosho, toasted rice, and cilantro. The flavor of the beef was wonderful, but based on the two rolls I've had at Uchiko so far, I really think Uchiko shines more in its other offerings.



We closed the deal and the meal with their sweet corn sorbet, served with polenta custard, caramel salt, and lemon. I love that this dessert isn't too sweet, and the way the clear corn and polenta flavors challenge your palate to re-interpret the meaning of dessert.



I think Uchiko has worked out some of the minor kinks that were present during my first visit; between the media reception and the outstanding meal we had there this week, Uchiko just earned itself a place in my list of favorite restaurants in Austin. Everything here - from the service to the space to the food - marries excellence and accessibility in a way that really appeals to me. As anyone who reads this blog knows, I love great food, and I enjoy it even more when it's served in a context that doesn't take itself too seriously. Uchiko nails this for me. Big thanks to Tyson Cole and Paul Qui for bringing this wonderful dining experience to Austin.

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Uchiko

I feel quite sure that Uchiko must hold some sort of record for most people served before its actual opening day. I don't know that I have much to add to the clamor of tweets and blog posts already in existence, but since I took a ridiculous number of photos at this meal (57), I figured I may as well post them, along with my brief comments about each menu item I tried for those of you who may be headed there in the future.

Interior by Michael Hsu, who seems to be the go-to guy for restaurant design these days. The space is larger and more open than Uchi's, and has a nice-sized private room that would be great for accommodating a swanky private or corporate gathering.

Uchiko has a backwards-L-shaped interior; this is the top part of the L.


The sushi bar, with kitchen behind it.

I was excited to be joined in this first venture to Uchiko by my friend Liz, as we share similar food tastes (and she puts up with my ridiculous picture taking). After agonizing over the menu, we ended up ordering eight things to share, plus two pieces of nigiri each and a dessert. With the food at half off, we couldn't miss the opportunity to try as much as possible. Note that the prices listed below are the actual menu prices without the soft opening discount.

First we selected our drinks - I had a couple of pan am's ($12) - sake, agua fresca, granny smith, rosemary. Light and refreshing without being too sweet.


Pan Am

Our meal started out rather benignly, with a bowl of edamame ($3):


Yeah, I know. Kind of a yawner.

Next up, the kai jiru ($6) - Atlantic mussels, celery, and basil blossom in an heirloom tomato water bath. The glass appeared to be tiny, but there were actually six mussels in our serving - plenty to go around. I liked this dish, but it didn't blow me away the way some of the later dishes did.


Kai Jiru

Then the koviche arrived ($19) - raw day boat scallops served over tomatillos with kalamata, black lime, and white pepper. I started to swoon after my first bite. Absolutely amazing; the tangy, salty, sharpness provided a wonderfully balancing zing to the fresh, mild scallops.


Koviche

At first blush, the tempura nasu ($4) seemed boring in comparison to the utter delight that was the koviche. But the tempura was truly a perfect specimen - not at all greasy and so expertly fried. I was impressed, although neither Liz nor I were fond of the sweet chili sauce that was served with it and opted for a drop or two of plain soy sauce, instead.


Tempura Nasu

Our nigiri arrived next. I had chosen a piece of gyutan ($3) - grilled beef tongue with fish caramel and maldon.


Gyutan nigiri

The mere thought of this bite still leaves me a bit short of breath, over a week later. Although I tasted many fantastic things during this meal, the flavor of this particular morsel has for some reason been the one that has lingered most vividly in my memory: slightly smoky and tender, with barely perceptible hints of sweetness from the fish caramel and the rice that caught me by surprise. Fan-freaking-tastic.

The description for my other nigiri choice, the hirame ($3), sounded intriguing: Atlantic flounder combined with black lime, shiso, and quinoa candy. Alas, it didn't turn out to be as good as it sounded; it was far too mild overall, and if there were any interesting nuances, I was unable to detect them.


Hirame

Liz had ordered a piece of nasu nigiri ($2) as one of her two pieces - Japanese eggplant and sumiso, which my Googling leads me to believe is a mustard-miso dressing. Happily, they brought us an extra piece. I would never have ordered this, but I definitely would again. Tender, flavorful eggplant over sushi rice is a fine, fine combination.


Nasu nigiri

Our lone sushi roll of the evening was the umaso ($9) - hiramasa with negi, lemongrass oil, avocado, and myoga.


Umaso roll

There was nothing bad about this, but it certainly did not stand out, either. I found the lemongrass oil to be too...oily (go figure), and the flavor overall just didn't seem like anything special. I wouldn't order this again.

Are you getting full, yet? Believe it or not, we were still going strong at this point. But we're professionals. Don't try this at home. Just kidding...I strongly encourage you to try this at home. Please invite me. Especially when you eat our next dish, the Bacon Sen ($18) - Berkshire pork belly paired with fried apple puree and apple kim chee. Yes. Apple kim chee.


Bacon Sen

Truth be told, you really can't go wrong with pork belly, in my book. But I have to give a thumbs-up to the whole apple kim chee idea. Ingenious.

The Ao Saba ($12) was our next selection. Norweigan mackerel was grilled and paired with bluefoot mushrooms, onion, juniper, and huckleberry.


Ao Saba

Honestly, I think this was my least favorite dish of the meal. The flounder was fishy, the onions were sharp and very raw, and the huckleberry was too sweet. It just wasn't working for me (although I did help with finishing it, so...).

Fortunately, we got to chase it with this:



Behold the Usagi Yaki ($18), a rabbit torchon topped with a poached egg and a simply lovely pear mostarda. The meat topped with the egg was so rich and succulent, and the pear mostarda was able to cut the heaviness just enough without interfering. Truly wonderful.

As with so many of life's great things, our meal had to finally draw to an end. We topped it off with Uchiko's sweet corn sorbet ($9) with polenta custard, caramel salt, and lemon. Not too sweet, with a surprisingly crunchy crust and a mild but interesting flavor.


Sweet Corn Sorbet

All in all, this was an excellent first outing, particularly considering the fact that we were still within Uchiko's soft opening period. Service was remarkably attentive; we were waited on by no less than five different people (we did have one main server, whose name I somehow failed to get), all of whom were very friendly and obviously knowledgeable about the menu. The only minor concern I have about this system is that it lacked a little bit of continuity; for example, the server who brought our dessert told us it was on the house, but when our main server brought the bill, we had been charged for it. We didn't feel right about complaining, particularly since the food had all been half off, but it was a little disappointing, particularly since we'd read so many blog posts by other diners who had received 2-3 dishes for free.

But in the grand scheme of things, that's clearly a minor complaint. We were so grateful to be able to experience Uchiko at half the regular price and before the long waits that accompany a visit to Uchiko's sister restaurant, Uchi, had arrived. And now that I've sampled so much of the menu, I'll know just where to point my chopsticks next time.

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